Genuine vs Faux vs Bonded Leather: How to Tell the Difference

"Genuine leather" sounds like the top of the range. It's actually closer to the middle. That one word has caused more buyer regret than almost any other in the jacket business, so let's sort out what each term really means.

The three materials

Genuine leather is real animal hide. The label only tells you it's real, not that it's good. It often means a lower layer of the hide that has been sprayed or embossed to look better than it is.

Faux leather (also called PU leather, vegan leather or leatherette) is a plastic coating on a fabric base. No animal product at all.

Bonded leather is made from shredded leather scraps and fibers glued together with polyurethane or latex onto a backing. It's the particleboard of leather.

1. The edge test

Look at a cut edge, inside a hem or under a collar. Real leather looks fibrous and slightly fuzzy, like compressed suede. Faux leather shows a clean plastic layer sitting on a woven or knitted fabric.

2. The grain test

Real grain is irregular. You'll see tiny pores and slight variations, and no two areas match. Faux leather often repeats the same pattern across the whole surface. If you can spot the pattern repeating, it's stamped.

3. The smell test

Real leather smells earthy and slightly sweet. Faux leather smells like plastic, glue or chemicals. This one is surprisingly reliable.

4. The touch and press test

Press your finger into the surface. Real leather wrinkles and moves like skin. Faux leather stays tight, or springs back flat. Real leather also warms up quickly in your hand. Plastic stays cool and slick.

How each one ages

Real leather develops a patina and softens. Faux leather cracks and flakes, usually in two to three years of regular wear. Bonded leather peels in sheets, often sooner. This is the main reason a cheap jacket costs more in the long run.

Feature	Genuine	Faux	Bonded
Edge	Fibrous	Plastic over fabric	Fibrous but pressed flat
Smell	Earthy	Chemical	Chemical and glue
Ages	Gets better	Cracks	Peels
Repairable	Yes	Rarely	No

 

Frequently asked questions

Is genuine leather real leather?

Yes, it's real hide, but it's usually a lower-grade layer. Look for full-grain or top-grain instead.

Is bonded leather real leather?

Only partly. It contains leather fibers but is mostly glue and backing.

Can you tell by price?

Often. A real hide jacket rarely sells for the price of a sweatshirt. But price alone isn't proof, so use the tests above.

 

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Explore more from Holloway & Hide

Continue reading our leather guide and jacket sizing guide, or explore men's leather jackets and women's leather jackets at Holloway & Hide.